We had a wet winter on KI, which recharged soils with moisture in time for the growing season. November was quite windy, which can impact fruit set, but it turns out that this vintage we had a very even crop. Summer was mild without any big heat spikes, which are perfect conditions for a long, slow ripening period. As a consequence, grapes from vintage 2022 have terrific fruit intensity and lovely acidity.

Grapes are harvested and brought back to our Willunga winery before being crushed and fermented in open vessels.  Juice is pumped over the fermenting grapes twice a day to draw out maximum colour and flavour from the skins. Fermentation finishes in barrel. We use French oak barrels (about 30% new oak, the balance one and two-year old) for this purpose and for maturating the wine. The Cabernet spends about 12 months in oak before bottling.

• The Wine Front

  My first introduction to Kangaroo Island wines was via a French man (Jacques Lurton), way back in the mists of time (or more prosaically, about 12 years ago). Islander Estate.

  This is a cassis and tobacco laden Cabernet, and there’s no doubting the grape variety. Also some mint/aniseed, cedar, and pomegranate syrup, with something of a hazelnut/praline richness. It’s medium to full-bodied, a smattering of dried herb here too, fleshy ripe tannin, a slightly sappy/stalky bitterness, but enveloped in a core of rich black fruit. It has a sort of Coonawarra intensity to flavour and mid-palate richness, though the acidity is more settled than many from that region. I like it. It’s a bold wine, but it’s full of goodness and flavour.

  Gary Walsh

  93 Points

• 2022
• 2018
• 2017